Gold-metallic textile and gold-silver lace in women’s headwear of the XVIII century: results of research in the archaeological textile from Nizhniy Novgorod
Journal Title: Поволжская Археология - Year 2015, Vol 3, Issue 13
Abstract
The article deals with research results of women's headwear discovered during salvage archaeological excavations of the urban necropolis at Verkhneposadskaya St. Nicholas Church in Nizhny Novgorod. The structure and composition of the textile fabric and the lace, the headwear cut, the décor location, and the time of its creation have been determined in the course of the study. Special attention was paid to the gold-metallic threads, and in this connection a detailed technological classification of gold-metallic archaeological threads from different historical periods is considered in the article. It has been determined that the headwear was made of gold brocade with tinsel threads, which can be attributed to the mid- or low-value price category. At the same time, high-quality threads were used in the silver lace. According to the analysis of types and kinds of women's headgear in Western European fashion, the time of production of the cap under study is attributed as belonging to the middle or second half of the 18th century. The dating is additionally supported by the results of the lace research. It is a typical 18th-century fan-shaped agramant named “vilyushka” (“twister”). The study resulted in headdress reconstruction. It is a small cap decorated with metallic-thread lace along the bottom edge and the axis of symmetry from the forehead to the back of the head.
Authors and Affiliations
Olga Orfinskaya, Bella Shapiro
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