Restoration and research of the archaeological fabric from burial of the bulgarian woman of the Golden Horde period (the end of the XIV century)
Journal Title: Поволжская Археология - Year 2015, Vol 3, Issue 13
Abstract
The results of technological research of silk fabrics from a noble-born woman’s grave from Bolgar city, referring to the Golden Horde period are represented in the article. The burial was performed in a mausoleum dated by the late 14th century. A peculiarity of the burial consists in the deviation from the Islamic traditions. Silk clothes decorated with golden threads and jewellery in the form of temple rings were found here. Laboratory study was conducted on a well-preserved complex headdress, which includes several textile layers consisting of silk products, such as shawls, scarves, and a veil. Headdress of the kind has analogues in Central Asian ethnographic materials. Microscopy has been used to determine composition types of the fabrics: the structure of textile weaves, technology for thread manufacturing, and thread colour selection in polychrome fabrics were considered. The samples of medieval fabrics, such as lance, taffeta, summit, etc. have been identified. Their technological characteristics are cited in detail. In restoring the veil (external shawl), the method of object stabilization was used, which combines the strengthening of the gold threads and plasticization of the archaeological fabrics. Gold-thread embroidery pattern has also been recovered. The rich diversity of textile fabrics of mixed origin attests to a developed trade structure with varied sources of imports from China, Central Asia, and Egypt.
Authors and Affiliations
Yulia Fedotova, Olga Orfinskaya, Nataliya Sinitsyna, Mariya Vizgalova
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