STUDY REGARDING THE PATTERN DESIGN FOR FOOTWEAR WITH AND WITHOUT PREMOULDING OF THE VAMP
Journal Title: Annals of the University of Oradea. Fascicle of Textiles, Leatherwork - Year 2016, Vol 0, Issue 2
Abstract
When it comes to footwear design, independently from the type of shoe that is to be designed (pumps, boots, ankle boots), there are different situations where the vamp is brought up to the leg. Specific for this choice of asemblance, is that the vamp can have two or three symetry axes. Therefore, the pattern is to be transformed into a single simetry ax guideline.This paper analyses ways to obtain the pattern of the vamp, by using the method of successive rotations and previous perforations of the material. This paper does not propose to analyze the existing methods, which are more or less accurate, but based on the authors’ experience in designing footwear, we propose two methods of cutting the vamp, leading to an spatializing during installation and also saving material during the operating of re-cutting the premoulded pattern after preforming. Most times, the preformation pattern is drawn approximately, during the second cut resulting huge waste, thus affecting the leather consumption. Based upon a theoretical approach and a graphical construction, we managed to obtain a reduction of the wastes during the second cut, and for certain models to completely eliminate this operation. In comparison to the used methods, which as we showed before are very inaccurate, using the presented algorithm we can obtain a material economy of up to 15-20%.
Authors and Affiliations
Liviu MĂRCUȘ, Nicolai ISCHIMJI
Keywords
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