ЖІНОЧІ СОРОЧКИ ТЕРЕБЛЕРІЦЬКИХ ДОЛИНЯН КІНЦЯ ХІХ – ПЕРШОЇ ПОЛОВИНИ ХХ ст.
Journal Title: Науковий вісник Ужгородського університету. Серія: Історія - Year 2018, Vol 39, Issue 2
Abstract
In the article on the basis of stock collections of the Local history museum at the library of the village of Terebly Tyachiv district, Transcarpathian regional museum named after. T. Legotsky, the Transcarpathian museum of folk architecture and life, the Museum of ethnography and crafts of the Institute of ethnology of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine (Lviv), as well as available literature, a comprehensive analysis of the cut and embroidery of traditional women's shirts of the Terebleritskys dolinjans of the late XIX - first half of the XX century was carried out. This locally-territorial center of ethnographic group of the Transcarpathian dolinjans covers separate villages of Khust, Tyachiv and Mizhhirsky districts. The author describes in detail the fabrication process of the cloth at home. The main raw material for this served linen, hemp and woolen yarn. The shirt, as the most ancient kind of knitted garment, is one of the most important elements in the allocation of local types of folk costumes with their particular details. It indicates age, gender, marital status, occupation of its owner. The placement of embroidery on shirts, ornamental motifs, and their composition are closely linked to the overall trim and shirt decoration. The article describes in detail the process of cutting women's shirts in the studied region: the status of shirts, sleeves, upper chest («pazucha») on the forefront, decorative sutures and bends. Embroidery was decorated with a narrow collar, «axils», sleeves, cuffs. Under the ornamental composition of embroidery on the sleeves the author of the article identified the following types of shirts: «romovanka», «zaspulnitsa», «kositsi», «rukavy». His features were the coloring of the embroidery of women's shirts of various cells of the Terebleritsky dolinjans. To the ethno-identifying signs of cutting women's shirts of the Terebleritskys dolinjans, include the part («pazuchu»), the side poles («skosy») and the transverse flutter («gatyashi») in the lower part of the shirts and sleeves. Embroidery «dovgan» in Terebleritskys dolinjans in the XIX century was characterized by the widespread advantage of geometric ornamental motifs, almost continuous embroidery of sleeves, gradual transition from single-color to two-color, and from it - to polychrome embroidery.
Authors and Affiliations
Vasyl Kotsan
Keywords
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- EP ID EP579920
- DOI 10.24144/2523-4498.2(39).2018.165379
- Views 84
- Downloads 0
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